Acadia National Park, Bar Harbor, Maine

By Jack Cipps

Eyeing the rain-soaked granite of Otter Cliffs from the top of the precipice, I paused before dropping my rope over the edge. I shouted to my partner, loud enough to be heard over the waves rolling onto the rocky beach some 60 feet below us, "She's a wee bit damp, but she'll still goo!"

Mike rolled his eyes at my fake brogue and motioned for me to finish setting our ropes, but I was having way too much fun to let him off the hook. Since Acadia National Park was doing its best imitation of a stormy Scottish isle, I figured I'd act the part.

Acadia is one of the only climbing destinations in America with high-quality sea cliffs. Difficulty ranges from beginner- to intermediate-level (5.2 to 5.9), with a few harder climbs tossed in the mix (there's also great bouldering at Thunder Bay and Sand Beach.) Aside from a handful of multi-pitch climbs at Great Head, the routes are short enough to be climbed on a top-rope, which Mike and I hoped to do as soon as the skies cleared. But we weren't overly concerned about the weather -- we knew there were plenty of options for sport in Acadia besides climbing.

Located just off the coast of Maine on Mount Desert Island, the park is comprised of 46,000 acres of surprisingly diverse terrain. Cadillac Mountain (1,532 feet) is the highest and most popular of the 26 small peaks sprinkled across the island. Most of the mini-summits offer vast ocean views that are even sweeter when they've been earned with a hike or a trail run. The same glaciers that carved out these rounded hills left numerous ponds and small lakes -- not to mention the spectacular coastline -- that offer great paddling. There's also 45 miles of carriage roads for flat and fast mountain biking.

That morning with Mike, the best crack climbs, like Easy Corner, were soaked, but an ocean breeze began to dry the faces, so we decided to stay and play on the sea-sculpted granite. I dropped our line over Gallery Arete, a tricky outside corner with a 5.9 difficulty rating. By the time we'd each done it once, the sun was shining. I clambered over the top, pulled up the rope and re-set the anchor for a new climb. Changing the ropes was a cinch, because Otter Cliff is equipped with permanent top-rope anchors.

We climbed all afternoon, until the muscles in our forearms were in knots. Then we headed to the nearby town of Bar Harbor for a few British-style refreshments. Mike suggested giving our upper bodies a break the next day and substitute a trail run, instead of paddling. Taking a long sip from my beer, I nodded in agreement and sighed, "She's a bonnie isle, this Acadia."

Raising his glass, Mike nodded in approval and said, "Aye."

Details:

Getting There: There are daily direct flights from Boston's Logan Airport to Hancock County Airport, 10 miles from Acadia National Park. Bangor, Maine, a one-hour drive from the park, is served by several national airlines.

By car, take I-95 to Augusta, Maine, then follow Route 3 east to Ellsworth, and on to the park entrance at Mount Desert Island. It's about a six-hour drive from Boston.

Climate: Summer temperatures range from 45 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. (Ocean temps are generally 55 to 60 degrees at this time.) During stretches of humid weather, strong sea breezes often make Acadia more pleasant than other places in New England. Fall is cool and stays reasonably warm until mid-October. Winter often brings enough snow coverage for cross-country skiing on the carriage roads. Spring usually begins in late April or early May. Watch out for man-eating insects until late July.

Camping and Accommodations: The daily entrance fee is $10 for a seven-day pass. There are two campgrounds: Blackwoods accepts reservations (800-365-2267), while Seawall operates on a first-come, first-serve basis. Fees range from $12 to $18 at both sites. Bar Harbor, Maine, is the closest town. A wide range of hotels, motels and inns can be found there, along with a choice of restaurants. Visit www.barharborinfo.com for a complete list of lodging and eating options.

Rentals, Guides & Events: Novices can chose from a wide variety of guided climbing trips offered by one of America's most successful agencies, Acadia Mountain Guides (888-232-9559). Experienced climbers may want to consider on of their advanced courses or a private lesson. Bar Harbor Bike Shop (207-288-3886) rents mountain bikes for reasonable daily rates. Maine Kayak Guide Service offers kayak rentals and guided tours (207-244-9500). Sunday River Ski Area in Bethel, Maine (about 3 hours to the west) will host the Appalachian Extreme Adventure Race (May 16-20) and the New England Adventure Racing Series finals (Aug. 16-17). Visit www.outdoors.mainetoday.com for a listing of other events.



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